
The last time I was in Las Vegas, it was for the launch of U2's Popmart tour in 1997, and the only thing I remember is that the giant lemon they were supposed to emerge from during the show malfunctioned in a very Spinal Tap way. I also couldn't get the sound of plinking quarters out of my head for weeks afterward.
It's a whole other ball game now. The old, quaint Vegas of that time is gone, replaced by the rumbling life-sized pirate ships outside of the Treasure Island casino, the fake Manhattan skyline of New York, New York, the candy-colored dancing water display at the Bellagio and the absence of grimy buckets of coins in favor of plastic cards. Not a gambler or a drinker by nature — which kind of makes me stand out like a militant vegan at a Louisiana rib festival — I decided to try and have the most Vegas experience I could without resorting to penny slots and "Guitar Hero"-sized, Stratocaster-shaped drink specials.
Instead of blowing my per diem in a smoky casino, my Saturday (April 17) would consist of plugging quarters into vintage pinball games, gawking at Liberace's feathered get-ups, the Beatles' Cirque du Soleil show "Love" and a nightcap of rock with Them Crooked Vultures at the Hard Rock Casino.
Ostensibly in town to cover the Academy of Country Music Awards on Sunday night (April 18), I got in a day early and made a beeline for a part of town none of my cab drivers were familiar with. First stop: The Las Vegas Pinball Hall of Fame and Museum. For a silver ball junkie like me, this was like visiting the Louvre. In addition to tons of really boss vintage games like the amazing Elton John-themed "Captain Fantastic," there were some of my all-time arcade favorites, like "Xenon," "Twilight Zone," "Terminator 2," "Spy Hunter," "Shaq Attack," "Pin-Bot," "Tron" and "Dragon's Lair," the first "interactive" video game, which used then-cutting edge laser disc technology.
Literally across the street is the Liberace Museum, a memorial to perhaps the most Vegas of all Vegas performers, the spangly "Mr. Showmanship" himself. Lady Gaga has nothing on the Big L. From feather and crystal-dripping costumes that weighed more than 200 pounds (such as the awe-inspiring "King Neptune" get up) to mirror-bedecked Rolls Royces, a rhinestone encrusted Baldwin grand piano and a white and yellow gold piano-shaped ring with 260 diamonds. Liberace was so over-the-top he even made Cher blush.
That evening, after dodging the gauntlet of what seemed like hundreds of hawkers trying to hand me cards for escort services, pushing my way past freaks dressed as Na'vi, storm troopers, Jack Sparrow, Edward Scissorhands and more than half a dozen Michael Jacksons, I hit up the Mirage to catch the Cirque du Soleil show "Love."
I'd read plenty of rave reviews of the Beatles revue, and I've seen a number of Cirque shows before, but none of that prepared me for this spectacle. Read More...






